From L’Estaque, the simplest hike on the Côte Bleue starts with a train: Niolon station comes only a few minutes after Marseille, and the sentier des douaniers (the old customs officers’ path) then follows the coves. Access to the hills is regulated only in summer, so autumn is the right season.
At a glance: which hike to choose
| You want | Trail | Distance and time | Start |
|---|---|---|---|
| The classic | Niolon to La Redonne | 7.03 km, 2h45, hard | Niolon station, train back from La Redonne |
| To walk home to L’Estaque | Niolon to L’Estaque | 9.33 km, 3h30, medium | Niolon station |
| One cove, not the whole path | Érevine cove loop | 6.01 km, 2h25, medium | Le Rove |
| With children | Sentier du Lézard | Footbridges and ramps | Carry-le-Rouet |
| Several days | Grand Sentier de la Côte Bleue | 17 loops of 2 to 12 km, 3 to 4 days | Côte Bleue stations |
Distances and times come from Visorando and from the Marseille tourist office. They differ from one source to another: download the track before you set off.
The plan from L’Estaque: train out, walk back
From the villa to L’Estaque station, allow a 20-minute walk by the OpenStreetMap calculation. The Côte Bleue train stops at Niolon only a few minutes after leaving Marseille, according to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Tourisme. From there the path crosses the coves back to L’Estaque: 9.33 km, 3h30. It runs through a wild stretch, then a suburban one along the RD568 to the L’Estaque district.
Be careful on this stretch, and start early so you are not rushing at the end. Hikers describe narrow paths right at the cliff edge, and they advise against coming back along the railway: never walk on the tracks.
Our guide to the Côte Bleue from Marseille describes the villages and the stations on the line.
The trails in detail
The Côte Bleue is the seaward face of the Chaîne de l’Estaque, a white limestone massif 28 km long that stretches from Marseille to Martigues. The sentier des douaniers is named after the customs officers who watched the coast for smugglers, when taxes on cloth, alcohol and tobacco soared during the Revolution.
Niolon to La Redonne, the classic
The path starts at Niolon station and crosses many coves: Érevine, Méjean, Figuières, Les Anthénors. It ends at La Redonne, where you can take the train again. The Marseille tourist office counts 3h of walking, with a few difficult passages. Visorando gives 7.03 km, 2h45, and rates the route hard.
The Érevine cove loop
Visorando lists a loop (6.01 km, 2h25), rated medium, that leads to the Érevine cove, where the sheet suggests a swim. The customs officers’ path is very busy at weekends: a weekday outing is quieter. It is steep in places, with some exposed passages, and tricky for anyone prone to vertigo. According to the sheet, the rocks can be slippery even in sunny weather. It recommends doing the loop in autumn or spring.
The Grand Sentier de la Côte Bleue
The Grand Sentier opened in 2018, set up by the communes of Ensuès-la-Redonne, Carry-le-Rouet, Sausset-les-Pins and Martigues. It has 17 loops of 2 to 12 km, and you need 3 to 4 days to walk all of it. Each stage can start from a station on the Marseille to Miramas TER line. The waymarks are red and white, with the GR 51 on the customs officers’ path.
The length depends on the official source: the Marseille tourist office counts 62 km, while the regional sheet lists 65.3 km and rates it very hard. Use the GPX track from the regional sheet rather than a figure from memory.
Easy walks
For families, the tourist office suggests the Sentier du Lézard, starting from Carry-le-Rouet. It has footbridges and ramps. The path from La Couronne to the Sainte-Croix beach is also easy, with a fitness trail.
When to go and what to bring
Access to forest areas is regulated from 1 June to 30 September inclusive, according to the prefecture. Autumn falls outside that period. The prefecture publishes an access map: look at it before you go.
For kit, the tourist office advises good hiking or trail shoes, a cap, a rucksack and a water bottle. It mentions 1 litre minimum per person, while another guide says at least 2 litres a day: take the higher amount. Stay on the marked paths. Lighting a fire or smoking is forbidden, and rubbish goes back in your bag.
Stones are slippery when wet. At the end of October, a trail run between Martigues and Carro was cancelled after floods: check the weather for the previous days before you choose your path.
Getting back by train
The Côte Bleue train runs all year, according to Lonely Planet. On weekdays several trains a day link Marseille and Miramas, with more at weekends and in summer. It does not run every hour: one traveller says he waited about 45 minutes. Check the time of the last train before you set off, especially if you finish at La Redonne. The train is also an escape route: if tiredness or the weather turns, you stop at the nearest station, since every stage starts from one.
To stay in L’Estaque after your hike, see the villa. If the Côte Bleue makes you want calanques further east, read our guide to the Calanques from Marseille.
FAQ
Which hike can I do from L’Estaque? Take the train to Niolon station, then the customs officers’ path: towards La Redonne (7.03 km, 2h45) or back to L’Estaque on foot (9.33 km, 3h30).
How long does Niolon to La Redonne take? The Marseille tourist office counts 3h of walking, Visorando 2h45. Plan for the longer time, because there are difficult passages.
Can you hike the Côte Bleue in October? Yes: access to the hills is regulated from 1 June to 30 September inclusive. Still check the prefecture’s access map and the weather.
How many days does the Grand Sentier de la Côte Bleue take? Allow 3 to 4 days to do all of it, with 17 loops of 2 to 12 km. Each stage starts from a station.
How much water should I carry? The tourist office advises 1 litre minimum per person, another guide at least 2 litres a day. Take the higher amount.
Stay at Villa Byblos
Villa Byblos is high on the hills of L’Estaque, facing the bay and the harbour. The sea view runs 180°, from Notre-Dame de la Garde to the edge of the Côte Bleue. Four bedrooms, room for up to 8 people, and L’Estaque station 20 minutes away on foot.
