The Côte Bleue train runs along the sea from Marseille-Saint-Charles to Miramas, and L’Estaque is the station for the villa’s neighbourhood. From there, Niolon is only a few minutes away by train. L’Estaque station is 4 minutes by car from the villa, or 20 minutes on foot.
At a glance: one station, one walk
| Station | What to do | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| L’Estaque | The harbour, panisses and chichis fregis, the Painters’ Path | Starting from the villa |
| Niolon | The little harbour under the viaduct, the customs officers’ path to Méjean | Walkers |
| La Redonne-Ensuès | Access to the calanques of Méjean and L’Érevine | Hikers |
| Carry-le-Rouet | The Lizard Path, the sea urchin feasts in February | Families, lunch |
| Sausset-les-Pins | The seafront, the sea urchin feasts in January | A quiet stroll |
The Côte Bleue train in practice
The Côte Bleue train is a TER (a regional express train) on line 7B ZOU, which links Marseille and Miramas via Port-de-Bouc. The line serves the stations of L’Estaque, Niolon, La Redonne-Ensuès, Carry-le-Rouet, Sausset-les-Pins, La Couronne-Carro, Martigues, Croix-Sainte, Port-de-Bouc, Fos-sur-Mer, Rassuen and Istres. It is 60 kilometres long, 32 of them along the calanques (the narrow limestone coves of this coast), with 23 tunnels, 18 viaducts and 2 bridges. The engineer Paul Séjourné built it between 1907 and 1915, along the edge of the cliffs.
Here is what to know before you board:
- Journey time: about 55 minutes from Marseille to Martigues, and about an hour and a half to Miramas. From L’Estaque to Niolon, only a few minutes.
- Frequency: up to 13 trains a day, and there can be more than two hours between two departures. Check the timetable before you leave, and the return one above all.
- The ticket: it is not tied to a time and there are no reserved seats. You validate it and get on.
- Which side: when leaving Marseille, sit on the left for the views down onto the calanques and the swimming spots.
- Bikes: you can take one on the train.
- Trails: the train serves the Côte Bleue trail, 64 km in successive stages, from station to station. You walk one way and come back by train.
This year’s timetables and fares are on the TER Sud website or in SNCF Connect, and we do not copy them here. Check the engineering works too: the line stayed closed for eight months for works in 2020 and 2021, and a second phase is planned for 2026-2027, according to a 2021 report.
The stops, one by one
L’Estaque
At L’Estaque, the little harbour is the place for chichis fregis (sugar-dusted doughnuts) and panisses (chickpea fritters), eaten with your toes in the water. The Painters’ Path also starts here, a 3.5 km walk of about 2 hours that follows the link between the neighbourhood and painting. From the villa, the station is 1.5 km away, which is 20 minutes on foot or 4 minutes by car. Our guide to the Old Port covers other ways into the centre.
Niolon
The station at Niolon is right next to the little harbour. The tiny harbour lies at the bottom of a calanque, under the railway viaduct. The Niolon - La Redonne circuit starts there, and the customs officers’ path leads to the calanque of Méjean. Out of season, you can swim there in peace. Niolon is also a well-known diving spot, with the largest training centre in France. A 7 kilometre walk follows the customs officers’ path to the station at Ensuès-la-Redonne.
La Redonne-Ensuès
Further west you reach the access to the calanque of Méjean, in the commune of Ensuès-la-Redonne. The steep trail towards Méjean leads, after about an hour of walking, to the calanque of L’Érevine, with its turquoise water, an islet on one side and the viaduct on the other. The stations at Niolon and La Redonne-Ensuès give access to these paths.
Carry-le-Rouet
Carry-le-Rouet is the biggest seaside resort on the Côte Bleue. You stroll along the harbour quays past the cafés and restaurants, and follow the Lizard Path: 1.5 km of footpath beside the water, with panels about the wildlife. The Côte Bleue underwater trail is at the Cap Rousset beach.
Sausset-les-Pins
Sausset-les-Pins is smaller, with the same family feel. People lived off tuna fishing here, and today you walk along the corniche, between sandy beaches and small coves.
La Couronne-Carro
La Couronne-Carro is a fishing village known for its fish market, and the Verdon beach is a few minutes from the station. Further on, the discreet Couronne Vieille beach mixes sand and pebbles, with the red and white lighthouse of La Couronne. After that, the line carries on to Martigues, Port-de-Bouc, Fos-sur-Mer, Istres and Miramas.
In winter: the sea urchin feasts, without a car
The train takes you to the Côte Bleue’s sea urchin feasts (oursinades). In Sausset-les-Pins, they take place on the last three Sundays of January. In Carry-le-Rouet, they take place on the first three Sundays of February. You buy the urchins straight from the fishermen’s stalls and eat them with white wine, in the winter sun. Check the dates for your year with the towns. Our guide to Marseille in winter covers the weather and the mistral.
Going further
The trails of the Côte Bleue are described in our guide to hiking the Côte Bleue. For a full day with calanques and villages, read the Côte Bleue from Marseille.
FAQ
How long does the Côte Bleue train take? About 55 minutes from Marseille to Martigues, and about an hour and a half to Miramas. From L’Estaque to Niolon, it is only a few minutes.
How many trains run each day? Up to 13 trains a day, with sometimes more than two hours between two departures. Check the return times before you leave.
Which side should you sit on for the view? On the left when leaving Marseille, for the views down onto the calanques.
Do you need to reserve a seat? No. The ticket is not tied to a time and there are no reserved seats: you validate it and get on.
Can you take a bike on the train? Yes, you can.
Is the line always open? It was closed for eight months in 2020 and 2021 for works, and a second phase is planned for 2026-2027. Check the current works on the TER Sud website before you go.
Stay at Villa Byblos
From the terrace of Villa Byblos, on the hills of L’Estaque, the sea view stretches 180°. The house has 4 bedrooms and sleeps up to 8 guests. L’Estaque station is 4 minutes away by car, and the Côte Bleue train takes you to Niolon in a few minutes.
Discover the villa · See rates and availability · Read the Getting to Villa Byblos guide
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